Has anybody else ever made one of these?

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Has anybody else ever made one of these?

Post  Adhemar on Fri Dec 04, 2009 11:18 pm

the piece in blue and white, on the right. Guy with the crossbow...

http://www.maisonstclaire.org/common/mss_images/030-Procris%20et%20le%20tentateur.jpg

I have a couple of them, and think they're great, so I was wondering if anybody else has any experience with them?

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Re: Has anybody else ever made one of these?

Post  Thomas de Folleville on Tue Dec 08, 2009 3:05 am

Doesn't look like anyone else has anything to say yet, so maybe I can start things off. Would you share some info about yours??

What do you call that garment?

What kind of person would have worn one?

Why are they great?

How did you choose to reconstruct this garment any why?

Have any pictures?

Thanks,

TdF
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Re: Has anybody else ever made one of these?

Post  Adhemar on Tue Dec 08, 2009 10:11 am

Sure, be glad to.

I've never seen a period reference to what it might be called, I generally refer to it as a grand assiette cotte. It's basically a garment for the upper middle through noble classes, though I have seen it one or two thugs in Mss. images.

I chose to recreat them because I really liked the look of the garment in the Mss. images I'd seen, and also because, as far as I could tell nobody was doing them, so I could get to be unique. Smile they are also pretty well bang on for the period I do (1405).

As to the how, I took the pattern for the body of my regular cotte, laid it down on the fabric and drew it out, then modified it for the new pattern, drafting out much bigger sleeve holes, and adding a longer, fuller skirt. I had to draft a new sleeve sleeve pattern as well, to accommodate the grande assiette aspect. It's laced up the front, as that seems to be the usual way in the Mss. paintings, which makes it a bit of a bear to get on and off, but it's worth the effort, I think...

My first attempt is here:
Spoiler:
Done in red and yellow wool. I wasn't completely happy with it, as the central red panel was wider in the end than I thought it should be, but I still love the piece. I've made another since, blue central and white sleeves, that I'm happier with the width of the central, but of which I cant seem to find a pic just at the moment...

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Re: Has anybody else ever made one of these?

Post  Thomas de Folleville on Wed Dec 09, 2009 3:41 am

Adhemar,

I admire how you adapted the style to fit your figure. I'm trying to look like the guys in the Romance of Alexander, except I'm not tall, and I don't taper in the middle. I figure well cut garments will be less work than going to the gym.

What weight wool did you use?
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Re: Has anybody else ever made one of these?

Post  Adhemar on Wed Dec 09, 2009 11:53 am

Thanks. One of the reasons I like the 1405 period is that I can make the clothes work for me. I really don't think I would look good in all the Romance of Alexander stuff, for precisely the reasons you mention. I'm too... er... prosperous, yeah, that's it. Smile

Good tailoring can help a lot, though, it's true.

As to the wool, the central is a fairly heavy wool melton. The sleeves are a lighter weight wool, a washed crepe, which gives the sleeves a little drape.

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Re: Has anybody else ever made one of these?

Post  Darby on Mon Dec 21, 2009 11:46 am

I like your recreation there. I have seen this garment done before by people in our group and yours is rather similar. Keep in mind that using two different colours (for the body and sleeve), helps to increase the illusion of the "wasp waist" fashion. I have also seen recreations of these garments (on more portly individuals), where they have padded out the chest slightly aswell. Another small help in creating that illusion. Wouldn't surprise me in the slightest if the hips were padded to help fabric drape and increase shape either. From what I have seen for the most part, it's the garment tailoring and choice of colour that assists with the "appearance" of the wasp waist rather than months in the gym Very Happy I have a similar garment, but haven't got the Grand Aisette sleeve, it's a bag pipe style sleeve that goes into a standard sized sleeve hole on the body, also made from wool, and veeeeery comfy. I have seen them buttoned (have to try and dig out the Ms images) all the way down the front and also just at the neckline down the front a few inches.

Darby
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Re: Has anybody else ever made one of these?

Post  Adhemar on Mon Dec 21, 2009 1:44 pm

Thanks!

I've given up on being wasp waisted myself. Too much damn work Smile As for padding, I figure I'm already padded enough.

I'd be interested in seeing it buttoned all the way down, I haven't seen that on the grande assiette, though I have seen a few buttons at the throat for the non GA style of bagpipe houpellande. There's a few in the Tristan de Leonois.

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Re: Has anybody else ever made one of these?

Post  Darby on Tue Dec 22, 2009 12:10 am

I'll just link you to the most famous one I guess:
http://www.forest.gen.nz/Medieval/articles/garments/Charles_blois/Charles_blois.html
and one not as famous in art although the sleeve join is difficult to pick up you can see it under the arm and also shows the padded chest:
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_45k8AtZbjr4/SHs7zhxpGtI/AAAAAAAAAHU/B23CC0YUAGA/s400/doublet1.JPG
and one from a French bible, can't remember which one though:
http://s283.photobucket.com/albums/kk286/LupusSanguis/?action=view&current=Franais159fol250vFestindAssurus.jpg

Darby
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Re: Has anybody else ever made one of these?

Post  Adhemar on Tue Dec 22, 2009 3:13 am

Oh, ok, yeah, I know the Charles de Blois. Smile I was referring more specifically to the houpellande sleeve version of the GA.

That last image... Damn. I'd like to see more from that book. the grey with the pink sleeves... wow. Smile

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Re: Has anybody else ever made one of these?

Post  Charlotte on Thu Jan 14, 2010 3:58 pm

Holy cats. That grey and pink is incredible. Love the seam lines!
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Re: Has anybody else ever made one of these?

Post  Darby on Fri Jan 15, 2010 5:39 am

I like that image too. It shows a variety of clothing styles, table wear and you can even see how the legs sit on the trestle table Smile
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Re: Has anybody else ever made one of these?

Post  Adhemar on Tue Jan 19, 2010 11:09 pm

Charlotte wrote:Holy cats. That grey and pink is incredible. Love the seam lines!

Yeah... It occurs to me I have both that pink and that grey in linen in the workroom.... Hmmmmm Twisted Evil

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Re: Has anybody else ever made one of these?

Post  Darby on Wed Jan 20, 2010 9:07 pm

I sense a new project in the wings Smile
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Re: Has anybody else ever made one of these?

Post  Adhemar on Wed Jan 20, 2010 9:36 pm

Could very well be. I'll post pics if/when it happens. Smile

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